The Place; its geography, geology or politics

Ultuna, The Uplands of Stow or Stowupland.

 

In 1949 the author, who used the pen name St Osyth, published this piece in The Stowmarket Notebook , he concluded his article with ‘Stowupland as a whole is quiet and peaceful at any time you may happen to visit it.’

In the Suffolk Green Book of 1568 Saxon hamlet is mentioned as otherwise known as Stowe Uplande.

press cutting
Extract from Stowmarket Notebook, July 1947

In 2010 the village was in need of a new village sign to replace an old weathered one. A new one was ordered from Wayland Prison. The signs reflects the rural nature of our village and the importance of its 19th century church.

This detail was sketched by Ena Carter from A New Map of the County of Suffolk 1804 – 3rd edition corrected in 1818 as printed for C.Smith, London. She copied it from a map in the possession of Mr A.G. Addison.

As can be seen it names 3 greens. Thorney and Broad Green still exist but not Saxham Green.

outline of 1880 Stowupland roadsThe image shows the roadways and locations of some properties named in the 1840 Tithe Apportionment. It was part of Ena Carter‘s collection. From the map it can be seen that before the 20th century the Uplands were essentially 4 settlement areas. Roads and footpaths linked the populated areas and more isolated cottages. The general layout of the main thoroughfares appears to have changed little over the centuries and are recognisable today. 

However locating specific fields and land areas prior to 1840 is a challenge, even within living memory some roads and place names have been lost. And it is always important to bear in mind that over the centuries our boundaries have been flexible. Lands previously attributed to Stowupland may now be found in neighbouring parishes.

Stowupland is generally heavy clay, over the centuries man made and natural drainage channels have helped to keep the farmland workable. And although there are many ponds scattered across the landscape  there have many tomes when lack of water has been a problem, Notably 1890 was a very dry period when drinking water was in short supply.

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In an unpublished manuscript the Rev Brame gives us a child’s eye view of Church Road  from around the 1920s, he described the walk  from Church Walk to the URC Chapel…’walking down the the road to the valley, past the school and the Church, then uphill by the Post Office and the Pub, to the Chapel, a distance all of about half a mile.’ He went on to describe the walk from the other direction, from where the road from Stowmarket approached Thorney Green Road until one reached Barn Cottages, describing Church Walk as a ‘hamlet within the larger village of Stowupland,’ comprising 15 houses or cottages.

He described taking the Stowupland Road out of Stowmarket ‘we come to a signpost where the Back Road leads to the Back Lane and Gipping, and the Front Road points to Stowupland and Mendlesham. We turn right (bearing in mind the B1113 does not exist, and the lane he is using runs alongside today’s allotments – a track that leads nowhere) but would have been a T-junction straight on to Thorney Green Road  (Back Road) and taking a  right turn to get to the Front Road, passing Mill Lane on the right (presumably this we now know as Mill Street – there was no road where the A1120 today is on the right) but following the road round to the left.

apart from the commons, the whole area is farmland, belonging to the farmers who lived on their land’(before the 1930s many of the farmers here were tenant farmers but they did live on their land).

‘Along the front road comes the Chapel on the left (the front extension has not yet been built), and a bit further on the Boys’ Brigade Hut, built during the war years as a ‘temporary’ wooden structure for army use. It had withstood a great deal of rough usage from both owners (the boys brigade had moved it from Creeting but it no longer stands),

‘Then on our way we come to Abbotts Farm’ (Crown Farmhouse) and the Crown Inn with a good forecourt and a few cottages adjoining’.

On the right we pass the cemetery, and on the left an unpretentious village hall, then another group of cottages (Belvedere and Wren Cottage) and the Post Office’

The Post office ‘was not an imposing building’ being one room of a cottage, selling newspapers and stationery. Later it developed all the facilities of a P.P. and later still it became the telephone and telegraph centre. The P.O was set well back from the road; on the way to it we passed a small shoemaker’s shop, and adjoining it a large open shed called a “travis”; this harked back to the time when that set of buildings was used by a blacksmith, and horses to be shed used to wait in the travis. The forge was at that time on the site of the shoemaker’s shop. I suppose that was called progress. Now Mr Reeves was both shoemaker and postman. He did his rounds on a heavy bicycle with large square carrier baskets beck and front for letters and parcels. He worked through two deliveries a day, so he was a busy man.

Next came the church (Church Of England of course) standing back in an avenue of yew trees, with the disused graveyards all around it, and its copper steeple, now weathered to green, pointing heavenwards, on a square tower with its one bell. .(Uploaded on Holy Trinity page)

His journey continued through ‘a kissing gate leading to an avenue of lime trees, leading to a footbridge and a meadow behind the church and the school. Then we pass the wide gate opening onto the school yard playground, and the elementary school standing well back, with the headmaster’s house adjoining. We are now in Church Walk which takes us up a rise to the hamlet where our family lived. Our family home had as its postal address No1 Church Walk, but it has changed now to No.3 Church Road, to co-ordinate with modern building and traffic developments.

“Separated by a wide strip of garden, including Uncle Happy’s fowl yard, the next block of three cottages stood at right angles to the road. A path ran from the road along one side of the block and gave access to the three houses. These were probably older than the other blocks, being built in oak timbering with plaster between the studs. They were two-storied dwellings, with a steeply pitched thatched roof, topped by rather stumpy chimneys and chimney pots. This meant they had only one flue, and consequently just one fireplace in each house.”

Moving along up the footpath by the road, we find a stone wall, running right along the three large garden plots and the next block of three houses, up to a wide carriageway leading to the back of the next two blocks, and continuing up beside the carriageway. That block was the most imposing of all our four blocks, probably because it was the last to be built. It was taller than all the rest, made of red brick and tile roof, with full height on both floors. These houses had sash windows, so the glass panes were larger than those with casement windows. The road sloped gently upwards, so I suppose these houses were at the highest point of the Uplands of stow, apart from the Hall, which stood on a slightly higher rise.

Moving on to the last block, we find the wall continued, down the side of the wide cartway, and along the public footpath till we come to a pond, which collected water from two ditches and stood stagnant until the cottagers used it up to water the gardens in dry seasons. This block of six dwellings was set further back than the three and was covered by a long thatched roof with one brick chimney for each house, and had weatherboard sides preserved with brown creosote. The windows were casement style, with small leaded panes, giving the cottages a quaint look. They were called the “Barn Cottages” and it was easy to see why. The building was originally a very large barn which had been adapted to make six cottages. The builders had squeezed in an upper storey for bedrooms, all of which had sloping ceilings, making it difficult for adults to stand upright near the windows. Certainly ‘quaint’ would have better described the barn Cottages then ‘comfortable’

 

The Uplands of Stow and its surroundings.

Prior to the housing developments of the 20th and 21st centuries, Stowupland homes (within today’s boundaries) were either clustered around the village Green, along the Main Road or as outlying linear settlements to the SW and NE as Mill Street and Saxham Street .  The  area of denser urban population was nearer Stowmarket station around Creeting Road and Stowupland Street. This became part of Stowmarket in the 1930’s boundary changes.

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Footpath in the winter

This is a wintry view of a footpath looking back to houses along Saxham Street,  click here for images of The Uplands of Stow and its surroundings.

Stowupland is crisscrossed by many footpaths. In the past they would have been essential for local people to reach their work and even though many have been lost over the centuries today they are valued by dog walkers.  And with increasing traffic our footpaths are becoming increasingly valued again by  pedestrians as safe thoroughfares.

In 1914  Stowupland covered an area of 2,500 acres. It extended down to the River Gipping encompassing the railway and industrial areas along the river bank. It had a population or 1409 with some 200 children of elementary school age. It has been argued that in 1912 the population of Stowupland could be considered as two separate groups. The Urban Stowupland consisted of artisan families and the Rural Stowupland were in the main agricultural labourers. By 1931 Stowupland’s population had declined to 773, although its area was 2,481 acres.

Although Creeting Road and Stowupland Road are not part of Stowupland now, they are included as along with much of our surrounding towns and villages they are important to our history.

1783 map

Today’s Stowupland can be roughly divided into 3 sections:

  • An Eastern Farming area –roughly around  Stowupland Hall to Old Newton, Mendelsham and Earl Stonham, with the focus on Saxham Strreet.
  • A Central Area – the heart of the village includes our housing estates  and  The Green sandwiched between farmlands.
  • The South Western End down to Stowmarket and the River Gipping.
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Early 20th century Green

Central to the heart of  Stowupland is our Green. It is no longer the ‘waste of Stow’ only useful as grazing land but is valued by local residents as a peaceful open space.

The main east-west thoroughfares, that travelers passing through Stowupland have used since ancient times, pass through the Green and to its South. On the tithe apportionment it has the Green has its own designation of 400 whilst properties surrounding it  are   in the 3oo to 400’s. For some personal memories of The Green  read more

In the past parts of the Green have been built on but today it is protected as a managed green open space, though largely  bordered by housing estates.

To the NW and SE the land is still farmed.

To the NW, Stonebridge Lane follows the River Gipping with a bridge or ford providing a crossing place between stowupland and Old Newton.

Over to the East, Saxham Street links Stowupland to  neighbouring villages.

Today Saxham Street runs from just after Stowupland Hall heading towards Mendelsham.

The tithe apportionment numbering starts from 1 at the Mendlesham end increasing to  around 330. This section will deal with a roughly rectangular area encompassing the land that formed  Stowupland Hall Estate, along Rendall Lane to what was Poplar Farm (now Walnut Tree Farm) and down to today’s Poplar Farm.

See Saxham street Stories or click for images, our stories will be of the homes, people and land linked by today’s Stowupland Hall and Poplar Faem.

To the South, Mill Street used to lead to Stowmarket, now its a deadend.

Stowupland and Stowmarket are separated by the A14. Mill Street commences at Elm Farm and terminates at the A14, previously it led down to Sheepcote Hall. See also Spoonman’s Farm off to the west of Mill Street.

Today’s main road down to Stowmarket passes through these fields.  However the road to Stowmarket used to run parallel to Mill Street, heading towards Spulmans (Spoonmans) farm. The remnants can still be seen running alongside the Allotments.

disused road
The old road from Thorney Green down to Stowmarket.(2024 photo Langridge)

Research into our medieval past is revealing some fascinating information.

The population in 1327 is recorded as 21, but who were being counted?

Click on Medieval Thorney for a taster of what has been found out, or learn more about the Amundeville family, our Medieval Lords of the Manor.

Aspects of our pre-medieval past is slowly being uncovered  as farm land is dug up for new roads and houses..

A press report from 1975 told of the collection of fossils found in 1975 by a local farmer when the Stowmarket-Claydon bypass was built. The fossils dated back to the Mesozoic period.

 Local Councils and parish boundaries.

Stowupland parish Council -this is very much an ongoing research project. To start off – Jack Carter retired as chair in 1983

Our parish boundaries have changed several times.This means that population statistics aren’t a true refection of our population density.

As well as boundary changes, different areas of  Stowupland  have come under the jurisdictions of different councils over the years. Read more…

Weather occasionally gets a mention in our archives, just for interest they will be added here